SPIRITUAL PILGRIMAGE THROUGH INDIA

JUNE-SEPTEMBER 2004

AUGUST- PUNE, MAHARASHTRA

Namaste. It's been almost a month and I'm in the flow of daily yoga classes at the Iyengar Institute. They have renovated the yoga hall, as they call it and the size of the classes are large but not jam-packed as before. So far most of the classes have been taught from their senior level Indian students with supervision from Geeta and the master BKS Iyengar himself. The style of teaching is very intense and strict. But, it is a gem to have the master teach. I'm glowing inside. He looks so youthful at 86 years old and his practice is incredible. He is by far the greatest Hatha Yogi ever.I have a very nice room (Indian standard) right across the street from the Institute with Mantiji (Krishna Devotee) and her spiritual family. My food is prepared for me and they do my laundry. What a life! The most profound change to get used to is living in India. It is opposite to Maui: pollution, crowded, busy, noisy, language barrier, beggars, poverty, and it's the monsoon, muggy, rainy, dirty. But, I LOVE INDIA! It is so alive, vibrant, real, simple and SPIRITUAL. Watching the people prepare a meal is fascinating. They have complete awareness in chopping, sorting and washing the grains, making flour for chapatis and all the wonderful spices. Food is so inexpensive. A five-course meal is about $.50.

JULY-PUNE, MAHARASHTRA

Namaste. The second month of classes is always the best. It takes time to relax, understand the English with a Hindi accent and the tone of voice. The teachings certainly do wake you up, quickly. Quickly is one of the Iyengars favorite words. I was blessed to have Geeta and Guruji help me for my own personal practice. I love the Iyengar's and appreciate all I have learned through the years.

On the weekends I go to the Osho Meditation Center to relax, dance and meditate. It helps to balance the intensity of the yoga practice. The food is mostly organic and the facility is beautiful, clean, calm and full of life. There are six meditations during the day. I've been going to the Osho discourses in the AM, then Vipassana, dance from 11:30-12:30 then lunch. The afternoon is Kundilini Meditation and then in the evening is the White robe celebration. The music begins; you dance and dance and dance. Then you sit and meditate in pin drop silence. The highlight is a video of Osho giving a discourse. Each talk is incredible. He always seems to be reading your mind and gives an understanding of life. Osho is, was the most open-minded spiritual teacher ever. His teachings resonate with my life reality. It was such a beautiful celebration for me to become an Osho Sannyasin. I had meditated on this decision for five years and it felt so right. My Sannyasis name is Ma Prem Shanti. I love it.

"The world can be a chaos if you are a chaos. The world can be a cosmos if you are a cosmos. The world can be dead if you are dead inwardly; the world can be alive, abundantly alive, if you are alive within. It depends on you. You are the world. Only you exist, nothing else. Everything else is just a mirror."
OSHO

JULY-ELLORA AND AJANTA, MAHARASHTRA

Namaste. Took a two-day trip over the weekend, about six hours from Pune with an Iyengar student who I had met at a workshop in Illinois. Such a small, small world. In Ellora there are 12 Buddhist and Hindu caves and in Ajanta there are 30 Buddhist caves. One would have to be in shape for the climb up and down, up and down. Some people hired two men to carry them in a chair, I was tempted. The caves were incredible.

AUGUST-RISHIKESH, UTTARANCHAL

Namaste. The flight from Pune to Delhi was smooth. I took a train from Delhi to Haridwar, which is located where the Ganges emerges from the Himalayas. It is one of Hinduism's most sacred cities in India. When I arrived at the train station I felt like I was in a time machine and had gone back 200 years. There were Sadhus everywhere in orange clothing. I spent the night in a 3/10 level room but the location made up for it. I sat outside with my legs in the sacred Ganges on a clear full moon night. I smiled, laughed and felt deep appreciation for having the courage and trust to create this most powerful experience. The next day I went to Rishikesh, which is on the banks of the Ganges, surrounded by hills on three sides. There are two suspension bridges, Laksman Jhula and Shivand Jhula, which are the home of many temples, ashrams, yoga, restaurants, and shops. I found a beautiful, new hotel to live in for the 10 days. The view is outstanding. I watch and admire the sadus who walk for days to reach a holy site with only their walking stick, stainless steel pail for food and a cloth bag either on their head or arm with everything they own in it. I came to India with my super deluxe suitcase on wheels. I decided to exchange it for two mala bead necklaces and only have a soft suitcase that I can carry on my shoulder. I enjoyed the teachings at the Shivinanda Ashram.

AUGUST-DHARMASALA, HIMACHAL PREDESH

Namaste. The overnight train was quite an experience. I had a nice Indian man in my compartment and we talked about family life, business, religion and politics. I was exhausted, fell asleep and he was gone when I woke up. I was so elated to have the compartment to myself. I was listening to Osho tapes, music, reading and writing in my journel. Then a family from Kashmir came into my compartment and they were very loud. The had many containers and I realized that they had brought their dinner with them. So as lovely and kind that Indian people are I had a delicious dinner. Then it was time for bed and I was not able to get much sleep. Between the father and daughter snoring and the A/C, which felt like I was in a meat freezer, I laid in my hard bunk practicing surrender. I was dreaming of earplugs. At 2:30 am the trainman wakes me up since my destination was arriving. I originally was going to take the five-hour bus to Dharmasala but at 3:00 am I decided to be driven by car which took three hours and cost 950 rupees, about $21.00. It was worth every cent. It was beautiful to see the sun rise as we drove up the mountain.

AUGUST-McLeod GANJ, HIMACHAL PREDESH

Namaste. I'm staying in Mcleod Ganj, which is just outside of Dharmasala. The combination of Tibetan monks, Hindus and International tourist is so powerful. I went to the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which is the headquarters of the Tibetan Government in exile, home of the Dalai Lama. The energy is very different than other parts of India that I have been in. I think it is the Buddhist influence: quiet, humble, and compassionate. It is very quaint, quieter and not as aggressive. The mountains are beautiful with clean air and very quiet energy.

HIS HOLINESS THE XIV DALAI LAMA
NEVER GIVE UP
No matter what is going on
never give up,
develop the heart.
Too much energy in your country
is spent developing the mind
instead of the heart.
Be compassionate
Not just to your friends,
But to everyone.
Be compassionate.
Work for peace in your
Heart and in the world
Work for peace and I say again
Never give up
No matter what is happening
No matter what is going on around you
Never give up.

AUGUST-LADAKH-LAH (population 21,100)

Jule (pronounced joo-lay), which means hello, goodbye, please, and thank you in the Ladakhi language. I flew to Jammu, spent the night and flew to Lah. The security at the airport was so tight. They checked me four times as well as everything in my purse inside and out. Ladach is a sensitive area: it borders with both Pakistan and China. There are solders everywhere. The altitude is 3505 and you do suffer from AMS (acute mountain sickness). The whole village shuts down in the winter. The Great Himalaya Range with some of the snow-capped peaks 7135m borders Ladakh to the southwest. I'm staying at the Lotus Hotel and have views on three sides of the Himalayas. The beauty and peace is like nothing I have ever experienced. I'm taking morning walks to incredible ancient Buddhist temples and stupas, which often you have to walk up 100 plus steps. The altitude is to get used to and the constant dehydration. The village is mainly Ladach, Tibetan and tourist. I feel so happy, content and blessed. I would have to say that this sacred land is the highlight of my journey through India.

SEPTEMBER-JAIPUR, RAJASTHAN

Namaste. Met a couple from Holland on the airplane from Lah to Delhi and drove with them to Jaipur. I'm staying at the Hotel Arya Niwas, very clean, many westerners, good vegetarian food and great internet connection. I took the daylong city tour to: City Palace, Amber Fort, Museums, and beautiful temples. I was the only westerner and met many new Indian friends. Jaipur is a very dynamic city, the pink city. It has a new section that is very clean and beautiful. Before there were Rolex watches sun dials were used. It was amazing how the time was exact. I leave tomorrow for Udaipur.

SEPTEMBER-UDAIPUR, RAJASTHAN Namaste. I'm now in the Southern part of Rajasthan considered the most romantic city, also know as the blue city. Each city is so different and unique. The streets, or in America we would call them walk-ways are filled with cows, bulls, goats, pigs, elephants, camels, auto and petal rickshaws, scooters, jeeps, cars, horse and buggy, donkeys and humans. It is absolutely amazing how natural it is to share the space with animals. I took the tour today of the City Palace, built arount Lake Pichola, the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. Wow, the beauty and detail is unbelievable. I could easily move into the ladies quarters. There is a section where all of the furniture is made of crystal. They really knew how to do it up in the old days. I took a ride through the city on an elephant. I was not sure how to get up into the strapped on seat, waiting for a ladder to come. Instead the Indian man gave loud commands to the elephant and the elephant slowly bent one leg, the other, then the back legs and down he went. Still, how am I to get on? I was instructed to step on the elephants leg, pull on his ear, and up I went. Then the elephant stood up and I held on very tightly. Getting off was just as interesting. Its the off season so I was able to negotiate to stay in a beautiful hotel. My room is next to a Hanuman temple and faces the palace with marble floors, and incredible fabrics. The people are very nice and not quite as aggresive as other parts of India. When you first arrive they know your new and all the shop owners approach you. I've learned through the three months to simply go SILENT. I stay calm, centered, grounded and chant OM. It works! It is so hard to resist buying, EVERYTHING.Today a cow bumped into me. I was startled but laughed! This evening I went to an Indian folk dance which was in an old palace. The dancers had bowls on their head with fire and one had eight bowls stacked on her head and then she danced on glass. Talk about BALANCE and FOCUS.

SEPTEMBER AGRA, UTTAR PRADESH

Namaste from Agra. The flight to Delhi was smooth. I decided that I wanted a local bus experience. Agra by car is only 2 1/2 hours. The long eight hour journey started with the driver not able to find the bus station which was only 30 minutes away and took over an hour. Then the bus stopped in every town, street corner and each time people would come into the bus to sell water, food, etc. Now this went on the entire time. I'm the only westerner on the bus and I had my duffle on the seat so nobody would sit with me. Its very hot and humid so the person in front of me and in back of me would open their window completely which meant mine was shut. So each time I would re-open my window (half way). This was a ride that I thought would never end. Finally, we reach Agra and the bus driver signs for me to get out. My foot had not even reached the ground and their were auto rickshaw and cycle rickshaw drivers all over me. The next day I saw the most extravagant monument ever build for love, the Taj Mahal. Beautiful semitranslucent white marble carved with flowers and inlaid with thousands of semi-precious stones in beautiful patterns. Late afternoon I went to Fatenpur Sikri, the Ghost City which consisted of 46 buildings. It was built and no rain came so it became a ghost town. Next to it was a Muslim Mosque. I have been in many holy temples through India, but the vibration was very different. I was the only westerner and made my way through the HUGE complex. Besides having to say NO, NO, NO many times to guides, postcard, pens, etc. it was a very powerful experience.

SEPTEMBER-MATHURA & VRINDAVAN, UTTAR PRADESH

Went to the birthplace of Krisha. It was very well guarded, no pictures, 24 hour chanting Hare Krishna and POWERFUL. Went to the forest where Krisha and Radha danced. Had a guide take me through the narrow alleyways in Vrindavan to the many temples with monkeys everywhere. One of the temples had 2,000 women, unmarried, no name, no family and they chanted the Hare Krisha mantra two times a day for four hours. We went to a temple that for a donation you have your family names carved in Hindi on a slab of marble and its put in the temple. There was a ritual as well that went with this most powerful, heart breaking experience. The International Krisha Consciousness (ISKON) has its main complex here with devotees from all over the world. We arrived at sunset, and it was so alive with singing and dancing. We ended the day at a Sikh temple for prayers and a talli. Tomorrow I go to Varanasi, the city of Shiva, on the bank of the sacred Ganges where pilgrims come to bath to wash away all sins. It also is a place where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public.

SEPTEMBER VARANASI-UTTAR PRADESH

No doubt this looks like the oldest city in the world. I need to add to my list that there are bats here, yes bats!!! I met a couple from NY and spent September 11th with them starting with a 5:30 am boat trip down the Ganges. Early in the morning you can see people bathing in the dirty, polluted water to remove all past sins. There are over 100 ghats and some are used for "burning" where bodies are cremated. It was such a beautiful ritual to see the family (men only, since women were known to throw themselves into the burning fire to be with their loved one)carry the body through the town, shave them, turn them in the four directions, use banyon tree wood and set them on fire. It takes about three hours for a body to burn. The only thing left of a man is his chest bone and the hip bone of a women. Saw where old people stayed waiting to die. It really showed me how quickly a lifetime can go up in smoke. Whats left??? We went to a yoga school where the young boys were climbing ropes, wrestling, swinging weights over their shoulders all in the mud. So much for an outdoor gym. Went to a Muslim area to watch weavers working on making silk brocades and beautiful benares Saris on hand looms. What a meditation to do this work! In the afternoon we went to Sarnath. This is where the Buddha came to preach his message on the middle way to Nirvana after he achieved enlightenment in Bodhgaya. It was a great day.

SEPTEMBER BODHGAYA, BAHAR

Namaste. Bodhgaya is very holy, the sacred place where Buddha achieved enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree. The beautiful Mahabodhi Temple has a great sence of peace and serentity within the compound. The town is small, homey, pretty clean and filled with monks and visitors from all over the world. There are many Buddhist Temples here: Tibetan, Burmese, Napali, Bangladesh, Chinese, Japanese, Sri Lankan, Vietnamese, Korean, Taiwanese. I'm staying at The Root Institute for Wisdom Culture and enjoying the staff and solitude at the end of my four month spiritual journey through India. I'm able to do my yoga practice in their beautiful temple. I feel so blessed. The Lamas say, the power of practice is multiplied at least seven times here.

I'm excited and very grateful to come home to Maui to share this life changing experience and jump in the beautiful Pacific ocean...

In all the world religions,
love, compassion and tolerance
form the basis of the spiritual path.

--His Holiness Dalai Lama